Caroline Jenkins
Canine Behaviour and Training

An Extract from How to be the Perfect Pack Leader

 

 
How to be the Perfect Pack Leader
Fears, Phobias and Anxiety, Page 173
   
Before we can address these three very different emotions we must first understand them, these are not definitive definitions but they will give you an idea of the differences between them and will hopefully help you to understand a little more as to how your dog is feeling and why he is behaving in the way he is.
 
Fear is an emotional response to a perceived threat or danger, fear is a survival mechanism which occurs in response to a stimulus such as a loud noise and is designed to avoid pain.  For example, a dog may become frightened of loud noises because he fears the noises may hurt him.  Fear is a learnt behaviour and often starts with experiences as a puppy during the ‘critical period’ (between 8-12 weeks) at this time a puppy is at his most sensitive to new experiences and only one fearful experience could have a lasting impact, but fear can be learnt at any age.  Later in life it can be the result of repeated bad experiences for example physical punishment or aggression from other dogs.
 
Phobia is an irrational fear that has no specific cause or basis, dogs can experience phobias just like people can, for example Agoraphobia – a fear of large spaces is particularly common and Aurophobia a fear of gold which, I believe, also extends to other shiny objects.
 
Anxiety is different to fear in that there does not need to be an actual stimulus, just the potential of that stimulus.  Anxiety can be seen in dogs during the fireworks season, the responses to the loud bangs are fear responses but many dogs become extremely anxious during the day in anticipation of the fireworks and this is anxiety.  Dogs can also become anxious about going for a walk, this is again in anticipation of what could happen on the walk and not a fear of the walk itself, a dog that is anxious of the walk may try to hide when you get the lead out or may curl up into a tight ball and shiver.
 
The first step when dealing with a fearful dog is to diagnose which emotional state you are dealing with as this will affect the way in which you begin training, once you are sure what kind of fear the dog is experiencing, you must then also discover the source of the fear, if this can be done then training can begin, however in the case of the rescue dog you may not always have that information and therefore will have to rely on guess work.  In the case of a fearful dog where you know the cause; for example, a dog that is frightened of cars, training will involve repeated exposure to cars starting at a low enough level that he can cope for example in a playing field, you will be far enough away that he is fairly calm but close enough to still see and hear the cars, and gradually, over time, increasing the intensity so that eventually you are standing near a motorway at 5.30pm (at a safe distance, of course).  Treats should not be used for this type of training as it is likely that even though the dog appears calm he still may be frightened inside and if you give this dog a treat you could be inadvertently rewarding fearful behaviour and his behaviour around cars will get worse not better.  Just wait for him to be calm and under control and then increase the intensity by either getting closer to the road or finding a busier road.  When training a dog that is suffering anxiety, treat the cause of the anxiety and ignore any anxious behaviour.  In the earlier example, the dog was anxious about the loud noises from fireworks, to treat this fear I would recommend a noise CD, this is a CD that has recorded on it various different sounds that a dog is likely to be afraid of and they usually include cars, screaming children, trains and fireworks etc.  Play the CD at a low volume to start with so that it is virtually inaudible and put it on a loop when you are out at work so that it plays over and over again, over a period of weeks very gradually increase the volume, at each stage be sure that your dog is completely used to the noise at each level before turning it up again, otherwise you will do more harm than good.  Eventually, you will have the CD playing at full volume and your dog will not bat an eyelid.
 
Do not attempt to do any kind of fear rehabilitation until you are 100% sure that your dog sees you as his leader in all situations, he must trust you implicitly in order for this kind of training to be effective.  Also, do not try to train a dog that has a phobia as this kind of problem needs an expert that knows exactly what they are doing.
 

Only £9.99 + p&p

   
 

Only £9.99 + p&p

   
     

Terms and Conditions | Privacy Policy | Disclaimer | Copyright | Website Feedback | Site Map